Groggily, we awoke to the beeping of our alarm at 7:30. By some miracle, we managed to grabbed the necessary extra clothing for our dives: two pairs of wool socks, a thermal layer -- and water (not a diving requirement, more of a necessity due to the prior evening...oops); and be prepared for our pickup at 8. The dive shop was right on time and a way we went, picking up other divers along the way. The driver was nice enough to make a gas station pit stop for food. We needed it.
We arrived at Silfra and were given a run down of diving in dry suits. The undergarments are composed of two layers, your own thermals with two layers of socks and an insulated waterproof fabric. On top of that, you wear a full neoprene suit that extends all the way to the wrist and neck and includes the boots. A notable difference between standard diving is that dry suits have a separate inflator in the center of the chest. This is used in lieu of the bcd due to internal pressure build up during descents up. As you descend, additional air inside the suit not only compensates for buoyancy but alleviates this pressure.
After our intro to dry diving, we walked the 30 yards to the dive site which ended at a landing platform. I was immediately impressed with the clarity of the water. It is difficult to discern where the water starts because it is so clear. Once there, the instructors gave a rundown of the dive. There were to be two dives of 40 minutes with max depths of 18-20m. There isn't much wildlife. But that is not the main attraction. The silfra spring is the only place in the world where two tectonic plates (the Eurasian and American) come to the surface of the earth and then split. Water from a glacier then flows through lava rock all the way to the fissure and that is silfra.
We arrived at Silfra and were given a run down of diving in dry suits. The undergarments are composed of two layers, your own thermals with two layers of socks and an insulated waterproof fabric. On top of that, you wear a full neoprene suit that extends all the way to the wrist and neck and includes the boots. A notable difference between standard diving is that dry suits have a separate inflator in the center of the chest. This is used in lieu of the bcd due to internal pressure build up during descents up. As you descend, additional air inside the suit not only compensates for buoyancy but alleviates this pressure.
After our intro to dry diving, we walked the 30 yards to the dive site which ended at a landing platform. I was immediately impressed with the clarity of the water. It is difficult to discern where the water starts because it is so clear. Once there, the instructors gave a rundown of the dive. There were to be two dives of 40 minutes with max depths of 18-20m. There isn't much wildlife. But that is not the main attraction. The silfra spring is the only place in the world where two tectonic plates (the Eurasian and American) come to the surface of the earth and then split. Water from a glacier then flows through lava rock all the way to the fissure and that is silfra.
After the briefing, we put in groups. Joel, Steve (an Aussie), and I were diving together, presumably because we had all never dry suit dove before. We suited up in our gear and then had to have assistance putting on gloves, a neck collar (which is a glorified choker) and a hood. Once all suited up, there isn't much mobility. In fact, once you waddle onto the landing platform, an assistant puts your fins on you because you cannot reach your feet! When entering the water, you can tell it is cold but it isn't until your face goes under do you really feel it. A sharp cold pierces your mouth for a few minutes until your lips eventually go numb and everything is fine.
Dry suit diving was certainly an odd sensation. Your body becomes compressed like wearing waders. Then, in a push of the inflation button, the pressure is relieved. As we came to discover, the trick with dry suit diving is that the only air dump is on your left shoulder. So, your feet get above you, all the air rushes to your boots and you shoot to the surface.
Dry suit diving was certainly an odd sensation. Your body becomes compressed like wearing waders. Then, in a push of the inflation button, the pressure is relieved. As we came to discover, the trick with dry suit diving is that the only air dump is on your left shoulder. So, your feet get above you, all the air rushes to your boots and you shoot to the surface.
The dive begins with a nice little decent as you swim along looking at the rock formations in the fissure. Predive, we were warned not to touch the rocks as they are essentially just a landslide waiting to happen. We were also fortunate enough to have algea around due to the abundant sunlight.
In between dives, you stay in the dry suit as you eat cookies and drink hot chocolate to keep you warm. Quite the contrast from the normal fruit and tropical drinks given in between most dives. It's rather convenient because it could be wet and rainy and you would never feel it!
On the ride back, Steve told Joel and I of a place in the west Fjords that had a natural hot pot (their word for springs) on the edge of the ocean by a light house. He showed us roughly where it was on a map. We thanked him and went our separate ways.
Once back at the hostel, Joel and I promptly passed out, exhausted from diving and the night before. The plan was to hit up the happy hours throughout town from 4-6 where drinks are half priced. Well, we slept through them. The best laid plans of mice and men often go awry I suppose. But, we decided to make the best of it and go get drinks anyways.
Our first stop was the small Kaffibarinn, which is exactly what it sounds like. It serves coffee, beer, and is a guest house. Creative name. Being hungry, we asked what they had to eat. Not understanding what the waitress told us (partially because I was still half asleep) I told Joel to just order me whatever he got. We ordered two sandwiches and beers. The "sandwiches", at almost $15 a piece, consisted of a few slices of salami, and mayo on half a baguette. We were thoroughly disappointed to say the least. But, we learn the hard lesson that meat is expensive in the country.
Next, we meandered on to Olstofan. Drawn by the quirky dive bar appearance from the outside, we were surprised by the quaint sophisticated area inside. They had Guinness on tap. So, of course I ordered one. Sure enough, it was European Guinness! Delicious. We made friends with the bartender Victoria and she let us sample the Icelandic beers they had on tap for free.
Afterwards, per Victoria's suggestion, we went to Dillon's, a whisky bar. We met a guy from California who was out by himself because his girlfriend wasn't feeling well. We made quick friends, chatted, shared a few drinks, and then Joel and I headed back to the hostel as we were planning on meeting up with our friends from the previous night to go out.
On our way, we met two of the nicest Icelandic mothers. I think they could tell we probably needed food. We asked where the nearest hot dog stand was (because apparently they are a big thing in Iceland) and they walked us most of the way to the stand. We chatted with the guy behind the counter and asked him what the deal was with hot dogs in Iceland. The answer? Basically the same reason anyone eats hotdogs. It's the cheapest meat. I don't know what I was expecting but that seemed rather anticlimactic. We ordered a few fully loaded hot dogs which come with four sauces (none of which were ketchup or mustard) and topped with French onion crisps. They were awesome. I'm sure they are terrible for you but hey, when in Reykjavik.
For more pictures and videos of the day, check out the album!
